A/C Compressor ??? :: 1997 Pontiac Bonneville SE 40th Anniversary Edition

[Bonneville_Nut]

I have a 1997 Bonneville that is a 40th Anniversary edition that is in A1 shape.
I have to replace the A/C compressor as the body is leaking. Question: do I go with a new, rebuilt or used?
After I install the compressor, I am also changing the orfice tube and drier.
Do I go with 134A freon or is the after market products such as Red Tek ok to use?
Thanks
Martin

[Realist101]

Compressors are robust little beauts. I would way the cost of the three options but would lean towards new, these hermetic compressors are sealed in a manner that is not rebuild friendly as the cost for new hardly out ways the time/cost to rebuild, only a few companies specialize in hermetic compressor rebuilds. Also, go with the factory recommended R134-A refrigerant (Freon is an obsolete term). After market products often reduce the life of a vehicle's air conditioning system. When topping a system up with these products, the chemical reaction can form an acid paste in the lines and compressor when mixed with H2O that gets in when the system is open upon servicing/leaking. When the system's new(er) compressor is installed and all leaks are found and corrected, it should brought into a very low pressure (perhaps a vacuum) to rid all impurities. Then have the system charged back up with R-134A. That is my recommendation.

[Kilgore Trout]

I have a 1997 Bonneville that is a 40th Anniversary edition that is in A1 shape.
I have to replace the A/C compressor as the body is leaking. Question: do I go with a new, rebuilt or used?
After I install the compressor, I am also changing the orfice tube and drier. Do I go with 134A freon or is the after market products such as Red Tek ok to use? Thanks Martin

What did Rapid Rad, downtown Bayside recommend, Martin?

[bandit310s]

I agree that the system should be recharged with R134A as redtech 12a is nothing more than propane with a pine fresh scent. The system should be flushed and the reciever/ drier replaced as well as the orfice tube ...once sealed up the system should be drawn into a vacuum (30in/hg) for 30 min to boil off any remaining moisture. Remember you get what you pay for and you pay for what you get!

Compressors are robust little beauts. I would way the cost of the three options but would lean towards new, these hermetic compressors are sealed in a manner that is not rebuild friendly as the cost for new hardly out ways the time/cost to rebuild, only a few companies specialize in hermetic compressor rebuilds. Also, go with the factory recommended R134-A refrigerant (Freon is an obsolete term). After market products often reduce the life of a vehicle's air conditioning system. When topping a system up with these products, the chemical reaction can form an acid paste in the lines and compressor when mixed with H2O that gets in when the system is open upon servicing/leaking. When the system's new(er) compressor is installed and all leaks are found and corrected, it should brought into a very low pressure (perhaps a vacuum) to rid all impurities. Then have the system charged back up with R-134A. That is my recommendation.

[Dave Redinger]

Sorry for being late one...
I have used Duracool for years and have saved several units...
Propane?
Why r12a?
the molecules are larger carry more energy and use less ...
If the unit does leak after the repair the environmental impact is nil ...
As a DIY the stuff come in a kit to help install

[Kilgore Trout]

Sorry for being late one . . . I have used Duracool for years and have saved several units . . . Propane? Why r12a? the molecules are larger carry more energy and use less . . . If the unit does leak after the repair the environmental impact is nil . . . As a DIY the stuff come in a kit to help install

How does cabin comfort compare when idling on the Gardiner "expressway" waiting for a collision to be cleared at 3:00 p.m. on a June afternoon?



kilgore

[Realist101]

Sorry for being late one...
I have used Duracool for years and have saved several units...
Propane?
Why r12a?
the molecules are larger carry more energy and use less ...
If the unit does leak after the repair the environmental impact is nil ...
As a DIY the stuff come in a kit to help install

Dave, are you able to be more specific in your response? It looks to me that you're recommending R-12, propane and/or Duracool as solutions, is this correct?

[bandit310s]

I really hope nobody recommends r-12 as it has been outlawed for years and was supposed to be sent for disposal at an approved site. As for Dave's " propane?" an air conditioning course I took several years ago demonstrated the flammability of redtech 12-a and we were informed by the instructor that it was propane in a can. They have added a pine fresh scent as a tracer now.

Dave, are you able to be more specific in your response? It looks to me that you're recommending R-12, propane and/or Duracool as solutions, is this correct?

[CARSnGUNS]

R-12a, Duracool, propane...it's pretty much all the same stuff, being that they are hydrocarbon based refrigerants. Despite some controversy, they are safe to use and they are also more efficient than R-134a.

[Realist101]

Despite how "safe" they're said to be, it's just not a good idea changing refrigerants unless a full conversion of the system's vital components takes place. There will always be whiz-bangs out there looking for the cheapest fix but if it's on expensive equipment or in this case, sentimental, why take the chance? This vehicle was designed with a refrigeration system that runs on 134-A so it's recommended to stick with it. As for "safe"? HCFC's were/are being outlawed for a reason. They contribute to green house gasses as they deplete our ozone when they break down and the chlorine and bromine atoms are exposed to UV light of the sun.
As stated before, R-134A runs at a higher pressure than R-22, thus treated much differently when cycled through a refrigeration system.
As for additives, they are not healthy for air conditioning equipment when added as they can form hydrofluoric acid in the system when the "F"luoride is mixed with H2O, inevitably causing it to corrode over time. Theoretically, they should be banned from sale IMO.